Terroir Warsaw
Historically, Poland offers so many unique culinary touchpoints: The Renaissance and Baroque eras brought Italian and French influences whilst 18th-century partitions introduced strong Russian, German and Austro-Hungarian flavors. The great Ottoman Empire also shared a border with Poland for over 300 hundred years -the impacts of which can still be tasted today- and there are many dishes adapted from Ashkenazi cuisine's 1000 year-long Jewish-Polish relationship.
Terroir Warsaw explored all these incredible influences from with leading local & international chefs, trailblazers and culinary experts.
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A FUTURE FOR POLISH FOOD
Poland’s varied history offers a significant number of impressive culinary touchpoints. Let’s start with great Ottoman Empire which shared a border with the country for over 300 hundred years and sent subtle nuances of elaborate flavours rippling throughout the country. Then, consider the 1000-year-old Jewish-Polish relationship which has resulted in a plethora of national dishes adapted from delicious Ashkenazi cuisine.
On top of this formidable gastronomic backbone consider the fact that the Renaissance and Baroque eras brought Italian and French influences to the upper-classes, and then imagine how the 18th-century countrywide partitions introduced robust Russian, German and Austro-Hungarian flavors to the mix. Poland’s central location on the spice routes between Asia and Europe also added an extra pungent note to an already thriving local cuisine.
In these modern times, there’s much creativity and innovation at play in kitchens across Poland thanks to an emergent generation of gifted individuals who are articulating an exciting modern identity for Polish food. It’s a personality informed by local landscapes, wild and untouched ingredients, centuries of informed histories and traditions, and an appreciation of an international food culture. At Terroir Warsaw we’ll be kick starting the conversation about all the steps Poland has taken towards culinary greatness, as well as those still to come. Participants will leave with a greater appreciation for, and understanding of, what ‘Polish cuisine’ has meant in the past and what it will come to mean - perhaps even defining it through their own input.
Altogether it’s not hard to see why Poland’s food identity is amongst one of the most brilliantly diverse in Europe, defining it in these few short paragraphs is impossible. Instead, we spent two intensive days, meeting with the cities gastronomic leaders and digging deep into Poland’s dynamic food future.
Participants
Wojciech M. AmarO
Chef & owner, Atelier Amaro
Warsaw, Poland
Justyna Adamczyk
CEO & Editor-in-Chief, Gault&Millau Yellow Guide, Poland
Matylda Grzelak
Restaurant manager and researcher, Pädaste Manor,
Estonia
Olga KrEglicka
Restaurateur, Opasly Tom
Warsaw, Poland
Malgosia MintA
Food & travel journalist, writer, trend consultant, Poland
ADRIAN KLONOWSKI
Chef, Pädaste Manor
Estonia
Amanda Cohen
Chef, Dirt Candy
New York,
USA
JP McMAHON
Chef, EatGalway Restaurant Group
Ireland/Spain
Ursula Heinzelmann
Culinary historian
Germany
Magdalena Maslak
Event manager at Menora InfoPoint by POLIN Museum, Poland
Adam Dernoga
Hydrosommelier, S.Pellegrino, Poland
Aleksander Baron
Zoni Restaurant
Warsaw, Poland
Robert Trzópek
Chef, Bez Gwiazdek
Warsaw, Poland
Monika Brzywczy
Founder & Editor-in-Chief, USTA Magazine, Poland
Monika Kucia
Food writer and culinary curator, Poland
Maksut Askar
Chef & owner, Restaurant Neolokal, Istanbul, Turkey
AGATHA PODGORSKI
Culinary Tourism Alliance
Toronto, Canada
Julia Bosski
Chef and event manager,
Poland
LUKASZ KOZAK
Medievalist, Technology and media expert, blogger and TEDX speaker
RONIT VERED
Food researcher, journalist & author
Haaretz, Israel
Tomasz HartmaN
Chef and president of Food Think Tank, Wroclaw, Poland
Maciej Nowicki
Chef, Museum of King Jan III’s Palace Museum, Poland
Adam PawLowski
Master sommelier
Warsaw, Poland
Aleksandra Klesta-NawrockA
Food historian and ethnologist Torun, Poland
Lukasz Modelski
Food journalist,
Poland
CONNIE DESOUSA
& JOHN JACKSON
Chefs/Co-Owners of CHARCUT Calgary, Canada
PAULIINA PIRKOLA
Founder of SAUCE
Helsinki, Finland
Aga Kozak
Journalist, trend analyst, coach, therapist and mentor, Poland
Anna Olesak
Nespresso Brand Ambassador,
Poland
Witek Iwanski
Chef, Raffles Europejski Warsaw, Poland
Magda Wojcik
Culinary life animator,
Cracow, Poland
Justyna Slupska Kartaczowska
Chef & Co-owner, Jadka, Poland
Andrea Camastra
Chef, Senses
Warsaw, Poland
Agnieszka Kreglicka
Restauranteur,
Warsaw,
Poland
Agata Michalak
Journalist, editor and food writer
Poland
Andrzej Szumowski
President of the Polish Vodka Association
MARK BEST
Genting Dream
Sydney, Australia
Nicolai Ellitsgaard
Chef,
Restaurant UNDER
Norway
BILLY WAGNER
Sommelier, Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Berlin, Germany
PAWEL ZDUNIAk
Sommelier and wine consultant, Gdansk, Poland
Ingredient Workshops
During the afternoon, our delegation of chefs, historians, producers, press and media broke off into small groups to dive deep into ingredients common in the Polish larder.
Our teams shared personal recipes, cooking techniques and stories, before working out new ways to champion time-honoured Polish produce including: herring, buckwheat, cabbage, pig head, potatoes, honey, quark, liver, and lots more…
What People Said
Speaker
"Terroir Warsaw proved to be an exceptionally inspiring event. Gathering a very diverse group of food activists from around the world it highlighted a multitude of facets of Polish cuisine and culture, some of them very surprising and unexpected. As a Berliner it helped me to see a country that is so close and yet often seems to be so far away with new eyes and forge important new links."
Ursula Heinzelmann
Trustee Director of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery
Visiting journalist
"Terroir Warsaw brought me to Poland for the first time. I was surprised by the depth of Polish food and drink culture. I’ve got a lot more to learn on the subject but it’s a sign of the success of the event that I can’t wait to come back and do so.”
Joe Warwick
Author of Where Chefs Eat and Founder of The World Restaurant Awards
Local Producer
"Terroir Warsaw is great initiative to explore national culinary traditions and create space for cooperation and share of ideas and expieriences between chefs, journalists and producers on international level."
Rafał Duszynski and Anna Luczywek
Mleczna Droga, Manufaktura Serów
In Partnership With:
Media Partners:
Forum Program
9:00 Registration & BREAKFAST
9:30 Terroir welcome
opening remarks
9:35 what is food culture?
Each of us has a personal "terroir", but some classifications are harder and more complicated to define than others. Many parts of the world wouldn't identify as having a predominant "food culture" and yet, what we eat, wherever we are, helps shape a definition and identity of how we come together as a culture.
mark best, bistro by mark best, australia
9:45 tracing 1300 years of polish culinary history
Historian, Aleksandra Klesta-Nawrocka, takes us on a gastronomic journey back 1300 years ago up to what we now understand as modern-day Polish food, introducing us to the wide bounty of influences which have become embedded in Poland's food traditions.
aleksandra klesta-nawrocka, Food historian and ethnologist
9:55 Warsaw's culinary transformation
In the past 30 years we have watched the appetite for dining out in Warsaw (and Poland) explode. We welcome Agnieszka Kreglicka and Olga Kreglicka onto the stage - two pioneers of Warsaw's gastronomic reinvention - to talk about their shared learnings, the challenges they've faced and their hopes for our industry's future.
agnieszka kreglicka & olga kreglicka, restauranteurs
10:10 foreign influence and the quest for "authentic" cuisine
What is "authentic" cuisine? What makes one foodstuff inauthentic and another one "real"? So often, food identity is confused as being something that comes from within national borders but here, Maksut Askar explores how our national concept of terroir also needs to consider the social, historical, political and religious influences that have impacted our culture and which filter through to our diets.
maksut askar, neolokal, istanbul
10:20 interconnected cuisine: polish and ashkenazi identity
With over 1000 years of shared history, the Polish and Jewish kitchens will forever be intertwined. Ashkenazi identity is visible throughout many of Poland's most popular dishes and internationally the bagel, latke, kosher pickle and schmaltz have become common icons of the Jewish diaspora, ingrained firmly in our kitchens. Join our panel of culinary historians from Warsaw, New York and Israel as they discuss how food continues to keep them connected.
Ronit Vered, food researcher, isreal
Laurel Kratochvila, fine bagels, berlin
MAGDALENA MASLAK, MENORA AND POLIN MUSEUM, warsaw
moderator: Aga Kozak
10:40 Interconnected cuisine: The Spanish-Irish link
Spain and Ireland's shared religious connection and common protectionism thread continues to keep their societies intermingled. Ireland's leading food champion, JP McMahon, explains how Spanish culture will forever have a firm place in Irish national identity and how that is reflected through their diet - most notably in the common potato.
JP MCMAHON, Eat galway & food on the edge symposium, ireland
10:50 The Coffee Experience
Nespresso has worked hard to develop a brand of coffee that aligns with the discerning standards of international chefs and restaurateurs. Partnering with global coffee experts, the brand continues to work on educational and innovative solutions for the professionals they help, all with the end aim of developing superior gastronomic experiences. Nespresso ambassador, Anna Oleksak, joins us to talk about complementing flavors with the global restaurant community.
Anna Oleksak, nespresso
11:05 coffee break
11:20 Let's eat! Poland's fascinating interwar feasts
During the celebratory interwar years a united Poland exhibited its solidarity through decadent balls and dining receptions which drew the upper echelons of society together in sophisticated refinery. Likewise, many restaurants and cafes served as notable meeting spots for noble Varsavians and intellectuals who came together to indulge in "zakaski" and vodka. We'll recall this glamorous period and explore why it's still a cause for celebration all these years later.
Andrzej Szumowski,Polish Vodka Association
Aleks BaroN, zoni restaurant
WITEK IWANSKi, RAFFLES EUROPEJSKI WARSAW
Moderator: Magda Wojcik
11:40 Let's eat! Exploring Canadian prairie pride
The cultural identity of the Canadian prairies is rooted in the story of the central European immigrants and native Canadians who worked together to build a central point for food and farming within the borders of the second largest country in the world. Canadian chefs, Connie DeSousa and John Jackson, have worked together to develop a portfolio of projects symbolic of their country's proud prairie history, and they contiune to celebrate its legacy by focusing on farming and foods with deepset traditions.
Connie desousa & John jackson, charcut, calgary
11:50 The shared influences of Baltic cuisine
The Hanseatic League was one of the first global trade unions and connected countries all across the Baltic borders. Our three panel experts from Berlin, Gdansk and Tallin will talk about how the Baltic terroir gives their countries a very special connection - one reflected by similar diets, food traditions and culinary evolutions.
Ursula Heinzelmann, culinary historian, berlin
Pauliina Pirkola, sauce communications, tallin
Matylda Grzelak, food researcher, Gdansk
moderator: malgorzata minta
12:10 Fish & Fjords: Building Norway's identity through its shoreline
Nicolai Ellitsgaard Pedersen is commited to helping people understand the Norwegian coastline and is currently building an underwater restaurant at which diners will be brought closer to their marine neighbors. Here, Nicolai demonstrates why his country's marine terroir is an important magnifyer of Norway's food heritage and explains how he will be using Under (set to open in 2019) as a tool to communicate his country's food culture to the world.
Nicolai Ellitsgaard Pedersen, under, norway
12:20 lunch
13:30 Building the next generation of leaders
Great chefs can only be created through great leadership, exceptional training and focused mentorship. Modest Amaro -internationally recognized as Poland's most prominent chef- is tireless in his promotion of Polish food culture and is helping the world take note through a revolutionary group of young Polish talent.
WOJCIECH modest amaro, atelier amaro
james brennan, independent Writer, United kingdom
13:45 "die Gemeinschaft" and how to build a collective voice
"die Gemeinschaft" is a community of avant-garde, Berlin-based chefs and restauranteurs who are rewriting Germany’s gastronomy blueprint through a shared manifesto which promises to cement a new identity for German dining culture. Here, Billy Wagner from Nobelhart & Schmutzig explains why it's important to work as a team to raise your voices collectively.
billy wagner, nobelhart & schmutzig, berlin
13:55 Polish Pride: What's next for Polish cuisine?
Gault& Millau's editor-in-chief, Justyna Adamczyk, challenges a panel of chefs from different cities across Poland to talk about working together in order to make the world take note of Polish cuisine. Building a supportive community and cross promotion are the first steps towards creating international awareness, but what else do we need to do to put the spotlight on Polish gastronomy?
Justyna Adamczyk, Gault&Millau
Adrian Klonowski, Pädaste Manor
Andrea Camastra, senses
Flavia Borawska, OPASLY TOM
Tomasz Hartman, FOOD THINK TANK
14:30 forming a Culinary identity through our cuisine
Each chef interprets their culinary origins differently and each has their own distinctive way of researching their personal food history. It's through these methods we recapture and redefine our food culture and this panel discussion invites three experts in the field to elaborate on all the ways Poland can do exactly that with its fascinating history.
Robert TrzOpek, Bez Gwiazdek
Maciej Nowicki,Museum of King Jan III’s Palace
LUKASZ KOZAK, MEDIEVALIST AND MEDIA EXPERT
moderator: AGATA MICHALAK
15:00 WORKSHOPS
16:00 Promoting Polish: Why we should all be culinary ambassadors
This panel of three Polish-born individuals looks at the projects and journeys they've made beyond Polish borders in order to promote Polish national culture and cuisine to the rest of the world. Here we'll look at their successes side-by-side with the difficulties they've faced and analyse how we can all be better ambassadors of Polish gastronomy.
Julia Bosski, polish dinner thursdays
Monika Brzywczy, USTA MAGAZINE
Monika Kucia, culinary curator
moderator: lukasz Modelski
16:20 A taste of place: Driving culinary tourism in Poland
Agatha Podgorski is a first generation Canadian with very near Polish heritage. She spent her childhood summers visiting her Polish family in Warsaw, Krakow and Gdynia. Her love of travel and culture lead to to working with the Culinary Tourism Alliance. Her focus is on helping to build up food communities in Ontario by connecting tourism, hospitality and agriculture. After spending four days in Warsaw and meeting with many of its culinary leaders, Agatha will reflect on what makes the Warsaw culinary landscape a unique offering to the rest of the world.
Agatha Podgorski, culinary tourism alliance
16:30 workshop findings
17:00 what is terroir?
Amanda Cohen has been a Terroir ambassador for the past 5 years and has travelled to Canada, Italy, Hungary, Germany and now Poland, to experience new culinary communities and learn from their leading experts. Amanda's own personal approach to Terroir encompasses not only her nearby environment but also her gathered experience. Amanda will conclude our day of presentations with a reflection on what Terroir means to us all, and where to go to find your inspiration.
amanda cohen, dirt candy, new york